Chopicalqui is the fourth highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca and the fifth highest mountain in the Andes of Peru, this peak is one of the 3 peaks of the Huascaran Massif. The mountain is located in the province of Yungay, at the bottom of the Quebrada de Llanganuco.
This mountain offers a challenging climb with a beautiful and aesthetic summit. It is an accessible six-thousanders, so many climbers choose to climb it by its southwest edge that presents little technical difficulty and an amazing view during the climbing route. To reach its summit you will make small stretches of technical climbing, overcome crevasses and feel the physical effects of the altitude of the six thousands.
Chopicalqui is located in the core of the Cordillera Blanca, so its summit offers a privileged panoramic view. From its summit, the imposing peak of Huascarán mountain can be seen very close, and to the north the spectacular cirque of the Huandoys peaks stands out, and also the difficult and awesome peaks: Santa Cruz, the Chacraraju, the Hualcan and the mythical pyramid of Alpamayo.
Huaraz (Google Map)
5:00 am (Pick up at your hotel)
Participants must be in excellent physical condition to join this climb. Andean Raju Expeditions recommends previous and constant preparation as a crucial factor to take on this challenge, then, the physical stress caused by the days of climbing will be minimized.
We strongly advise all participants to have an adequate training plan in gyms, outdoor sports, climbing peaks, bearing weight and long day hikes.
If you would like our advice, we can provide you a training plan after evaluation of your experience in hiking and sporting activity.
You must have knowledge of glacier progression, you must have a knowledge of mountain rescue, safety and equipment management. These skills allow you to optimize your safety and generate a collaborative work with our guides during the climb.
Participants should have experience in altitude the last week prior to the begin the climb Chopicalqui, which ensures adequate acclimatization and conditioning of the body to the altitude. It is recommended to stay above 5,000 masl before starting the climb.
We suggest an acclimatization program before your expedition, it can be mountains of the Cordillera Blanca with a minimum of 6 days of anticipation We recommend the Huayhuash Trek or climbing Pisco or Vallunaraju mountains before climbing Chopicalqui.
Our expedition starts in Huaraz, we will pick you up at your hotel with private transportation. After pick up we will head north through the Huaylas valley to Yungay, from here we will turn east towards the Quebrada Llanganuco. On the way we will stop for 30 minutes for breakfast. We will continue our journey and after about 10 minutes we will make another stop to register at the Huascaran National Park entrance control. After another 20 minutes we will go around the beautiful lakes of Llanganuco (Chinancocha and Orconcocha). Finally the transport will arrive at Km 36 called Ancush curve, the starting point of our hike to the Chopicalqui moraine camp. Our porters are those responsible for the transfer of the logistic equipment to the campsite. The first 30 minutes passes through a plain surrounded by andean vegetation,then we will go uphill until we will reach the moraine zone of the route. During the hike we will have the landscape of the majestic Huascaran behind us. After about 4 hours of walking through rocky areas we will arrive to our first day of camping, from here we will see the Chacharaju, Huandoys, Pisco, Yanapaccha.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Box lunch, lunch and dinner
Transfer by car: 2 hours
Estimated trekking time: 4 hours
Elevation gain: +1600 m (3100 masl to 4700 masl)
On our second day of expedition, we will start the day early in the morning. We will go through rocky sections until we reach the glacier. At this point we will equip ourselves: harness, hiking boots, helmet, crampons and an ice axe. The guides will be in charge of roping us to arrive safely to our campsite. After crossing the glacier and overcoming crevasses we will arrive at our camp.
At sunset you will be able to enjoy splendid views of the sunset.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch and dinner.
Estimated hiking/climbing time: 2 to 3 hours
Elevation: +800 m (4700 masl to 5500 masl)
We will start at midnight, after breakfast the guide will rope us up and make an inspection of the team’s climbing equipment. We will make a traverse to the base of the ridge, this section of the glacier almost always has excellent snow conditions. The climb presents us shorter sections of climbing that we have to overcome. After about 8 hours we will reach the summit to enjoy an awesome panoramic view, we can see almost the entire Cordillera Blanca, the most emblematic mountains of Peru: Huandoys, Chacraraju, Huascaran South and North, Alpamayo, Hualcan, Yanapaccha, Pisco, Taulliraju, Huantsan, Ranrapalca, Tocllaraju and more.
We will stay at the summit to rest, hydrate and take pictures. Finally we make the descent rappels by the same route of ascent, we will arrive to our high camp, we will feed and then we will continue our descent to the Moraine camp.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
Estimated climbing time: 10 to 12 hours.
Elevation: +854 m (5,500 masl to 6,354 masl)
The expedition has ended. After breakfast we dismantle the camp for the return, the porters will be ready to transfer all the logistic equipment. We will go downhill until we reach the road 106, km 36. The transport will be waiting for us at that point to transport us to Huaraz.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast
Estimated hiking time: 2 hours
Transfer by car: 3 hours back to Huaraz.
Elevation gain: -1600 m (4700 msnm a 3100 msnm)
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