Pisco peak is located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca of the peruvian andes, it is part of the Huandoy massif. This mountain has two summits: Pisco east peak, the closest to the Chacraraju that is rarely climbed and the most popular is the Pisco west peak, being this last one the most climbed during the season and one of the great climbing classics of the Cordillera Blanca.
Pisco peak is considered as the balcony of the Cordillera Blanca due to its height and location since it enjoys a 360° visual domain of the most emblematic mountains of the Cordillera Blanca.
From its summit, the following mountains can be seen: to the east, the Caraz, Aguja, La Esfinge and Los Huandoy peaks, to the west, the amazing Chacraraju; a little further north, the Garcilaso Pyramid and the Artesonraju; in the northern horizon, the Alpamayo and Santa Cruz peaks; to the south, the majestic Huascaran mountain dominates.
Pisco peak doesn’t present great difficulties and it is relatively easy to climb to its summit by the normal route. Pisco is the mountain chosen by many mountaineers as part of the acclimatization program prior to climbing another mountain with higher altitude and greater technical complexity, it can also be a final objective after a trekking program in the Andes.
Huaraz (Google Map)
5:00 am (Pick up at your hotel)
Participants must be in excellent physical condition to join this climb. Andean Raju Expeditions recommends previous and constant preparation as a crucial factor to take on this challenge, then, the physical stress caused by the days of climbing will be minimized.
We strongly advise all participants to have an adequate training plan in gyms, outdoor sports, climbing peaks, bearing weight and long day hikes.
If you would like our advice, we can provide you a training plan after evaluation of your experience in hiking and sporting activity.
You must have knowledge of glacier progression, you must have a knowledge of mountain rescue, safety and equipment management. These skills allow you to optimize your safety and generate a collaborative work with our guides during the climb.
Participants should have experience in altitude the last week prior to the start the climbing Alpamayo, which ensures adequate acclimatization and conditioning of the body to the altitude. It is recommended to stay above 4,000 masl before before starting the climb.
We suggest an acclimatization program before your expedition, it can be mountains of the Cordillera Blanca with a minimum of 6 days of anticipation. We recommend acclimatization at Churup lake, then a previous climbing in Mateo peak.
After pick up we will head north through the valley of Huaylas to Yungay, from this point we will enter Llanganuco canyon. On the way we will stop for 30 minutes for breakfast. We will continue our journey and after about 10 minutes we will make another stop to check in at the Huascaran National Park control and after another 20 minutes we will go around the beautiful Chinancocha and Orconcocha lakes. Finally the transport arrives to Yuraccorral, the starting point of our hike to the base camp and place where the donkey drivers and donkeys are waiting for us to carry the logistic camping equipment. Our hike starts in the Cebollapampa plain and continues uphill for about 2 hours until we reach Pisco Base Camp. During the hike we will enjoy beautiful views of Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Yanapaccha and Chacraraju peaks. The sunset is spectacular when the sun lights up the color of the snow on Chopicalqui, Yanapaccha and Huandoys peaks.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Box lunch, lunch, tea time and dinner.
Transfer by car: 3 hours
Estimated hiking time: 2 to 3 hours
Elevation: +1540 m (3100 masl to 4640 masl)
The day of the climb to the summit has come. The approach to the glacier is long and through a rock moraine, we will make a short rappel in the first section of the route. After 3 hours of hiking we will arrive at the glacier, at this point we will equip ourselves, our guide will make an inspection of everything that is indispensable for the climb and finally he will rope us to continue.
We will continue making traverses to overcome crevasses, we will arrive at the Huandoy/Pisco pass and take a brief rest. After about 4 hours we will reach the summit to be spectators of a panoramic and unique view and a 360° visual domain of the most emblematic mountains of the Cordillera Blanca: Huandoys, Chacraraju, Huascaran South and North, Chopicalqui, Alpamayo, Hualcan, Yanapaccha, Caraz, Aguja, Sphinx, Paron, Artesonraju, Pyramid of Garcilazo, Santa Cruz, Quitaraju and more.
We remain at the summit to take some time to rest, hydrate and take pictures. Finally we make the descent by the same route of ascent.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch, tea time and dinner.
Estimated hiking/climbing time: 10 to 12 hours
Elevation: +1112 m (4640 masl to 5752 masl)
This day, after breakfast, we will dismantle the camp so the donkey drivers can prepare the logistics of camping and mountain equipment over the donkeys to transfer everything to Yuraccorral. Then we will go downhill. The transport will be waiting for us in Yuracorral to transfer us to Huaraz.
As an option and depending on the physical condition of the clients, the guide of Andean Raju Expeditions will suggest the downhill by an alternative route that connects to Lake 69.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast and lunch.
Estimated hiking time by the normal route: 2 hours.
Estimated trekking time by Laguna 69: 5 hours.
Transfer by car: 3 hours to return to Huaraz.
Elevation: -1540 m (4640 masl to 3100 masl).
