Huascaran is the highest tropical mountain in the world also of the Cordillera Blanca of peruvian andes, in addiction the second highest mountain on the planet measured from the center of the earth, after the Chimborazo Volcano.
Huascaran has two summits: the north, at 6655 masl and the south, at 6768 masl, the latter is the main summit and the most climbed in the climbing season. The climb is usually by the normal route and although it doesn’t have great technical difficulties, it’s a great physical and mentally challenge due to the route through its extensive glacier. Another route is the «Escudo» along which you climb an ice wall of about 900m high, it’s a challenge for mountaineers with experience in technical climbing.
The conditions of the route and the glacier change from year to year, even in the same andean summer season, so it’s necessary to overcome difficult sections such as seracs, deep crevasses and avalanches while climbing.
Huascaran, compared with other highest mountains of the America, is the most complicated climb, for example: the chute from Camp I to Camp II has high probabilities of seracs falling along the way, as well as in the route of the «Shield», in which the resistance in technical climbing is important.
If your objective is to climb Aconcagua or a 7000 in the Himalayas, we recommend climbing Huascaran, it will provide you with experience and acclimatization at altitude, ideal for future big challenges.
Huaraz (Google Map)
4:00 am (Pick up at your hotel)
Participants must be in excellent physical condition to join this climb. Andean Raju Expeditions recommends previous and constant preparation as a crucial factor to take on this challenge, then, the physical stress caused by the days of climbing will be minimized.
We strongly advise all participants to have an adequate training plan in gyms, outdoor sports, climbing peaks, bearing weight and long day hikes.
If you would like our advice, we can provide you a training plan after evaluation of your experience in hiking and sporting activity.
You must have knowledge of glacier progression, you must have a knowledge of mountain rescue, safety and equipment management. These skills allow you to optimize your safety and generate a collaborative work with our guides during the climb.
Participants should have experience in altitude the last week prior to the begin the climb Huascaran, which ensures adequate acclimatization and conditioning of the body to the altitude. It is recommended to stay above 5,000 masl before starting the climb.
We suggest an acclimatization program before your expedition, it can be mountains of the Cordillera Blanca with a minimum of 6 days of anticipation. We recommend Huayhuash Trek, climbing Pisco or Vallunaraju mountains before climbing Huascarán.
Our expedition starts in Huaraz, we will pick you up at your hotel with private transportation. After pick up we will head north towards the Huaylas valley to the Mancos village and then continue to Musho village, where we will begin the approach to the mountain and where the donkey drivers and donkeys are waiting to assist us with the transfer of logistical equipment to the base camp.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Box lunch, lunch and dinner
Transfer by car: 2 hours
Estimated hiking time: 4 hours
Elevation: +1,100 m (3,100 masl to 4,200 masl)
On our second day of expedition, we will start hiking early in the morning, 7:00 am. After our breakfast and personal cleaning we will go to the High Camp I of Huascaran. The ascent will follow sections of rock plates, after overcoming this section we will arrive at the Huascaran Refuge to take a short break, if you like you may enter to buy a drink or just take pictures of inside. We will continue our ascent until we reach the glacier. At this point we will equip ourselves with: harness, hiking boots, helmet, crampons and an ice axe. The guides will be responsible for the roping to reach our camp safely.
After 2 hours we will arrive at the high camp I, our porters will set up camp. You will enjoy splendid views of the reflection of the sunset on the shield wall of the mountain, ideal for taking pictures of nature.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch and dinner.
Estimated hiking/climbing time: 6 to 7 hours
Elevation: +1,330 m (4,200 masl to 5,530 masl)
This day is important to get us closer to our objective. We will start the day at dawn for safety reasons, due to the delicate state of the mountain gully. The porters are responsible for the transfer of the camping equipment and the guides are in charge of the safety and roping of the team. A fundamental part of overcoming the canaleta is to remain alert to the guide’s indications. Physical condition is an important factor to cross the gully as quickly as possible for safety reasons because avalanches and seracs threaten this place. After overcoming the canaleta we will arrive at our altitude camp II which is located between 5,900m to 6,000m. The rest of the day will be for food and rest.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Estimated climbing time: 3 to 4 hours.
Elevation: +470 (5,530masl to 6,000masl)
The long desired day has come: it’s summit day. We will start in the early hours of the day, after breakfast the guide will rope us up and will make an inspection of the team’s mountaineering equipment. We will climb through the gorge area of the mountain, then the guide will look for the best route to reach the summit. After approximately 8 hours, we will reach the summit. From this point you will enjoy Blanca mountain range in its maximum splendor, a 360º view of the most emblematic mountains of Peru: Huandoy, Chopicalqui, Chacraraju, Huantsan, Ranrapalca.
We will stay at the summit for some time to rest, hydrate and take pictures. Finally we will go down by the same route of ascension, we will arrive to our camp to eat and rest.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
Estimated climbing time: 10 to 12 hours up and 3 hours down.
Elevation: +768 m (6,000 masl to 6,768 masl)
This day will start at 4:00 am to safely overcome the gully to reach the glacier of Camp I, then we will reach the rocky area, we will disembark and descend to base camp.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
Estimated hiking/climbing time: 4 hours
Elevation: -1,800 m (6,000 masl to 4,200 masl).
The long desired day has come: it’s summit day. After breakfast we will dismantle the camp for the descent. The donkey driver and the donkeys will be ready to transport all the logistic equipment to Musho village. The transport will be waiting for us at this point to take us to Huaraz.
Meals: Breakfast.
Estimated trekking time: 5 hours.
Transportation by car: 3 hours back to Huaraz.
Elevation: -1,100 m (4,200 masl to 3,100 masl)
