Artesonraju is one of the most beautiful andean peaks in the Cordillera Blanca and in the world, its pyramid shape is shown in the logo of the film production company Paramount Pictures. This aesthetic ice pyramid is located within the Huascaran National Park of Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, between Quebrada Santa Cruz to the north and Quebrada Paron to the south.
In recent years, this mountain has become very popular, especially for its two main routes: the first one corresponds to the north ridge that is accessible by the Quebrada Santa Cruz, and the other by the southeast face, which is accessed by Parón lake. The latter route is more technically rigorous in ice climbing with an approximate 1200m of elevation gain and a sustained slope of 45° to 55°, in some occasional sections exceeding 70°.
Artesonraju is a technical and difficult mountain to climb, with hard ice, very steep, with soft and unstable snow for several sections. Artesonraju is only recommended for climbers experienced in technical ice climbing at an advanced level. Remember that the summit ridge of Artesonraju is characterized by a very exposed pitch, due to the fragile conditions of its cornices.
Huaraz (Google Map)
4:00 am (Pick up at your hotel)
Participants must be in good physical condition to join this climb. Andean Raju Expeditions recommends previous and constant preparation as a crucial factor to take on this challenge, then, the physical stress caused by the days of climbing will be minimized.
We strongly advise all participants to have an adequate training plan in gyms, outdoor sports, climbing peaks and ice walls, bearing weight and long day hikes.
If you would like our advice, we can provide you a training plan after evaluation of your experience in hiking and sporting activity.
You must have knowledge of glacier progression and technical climbing on ice walls. You must have a knowledge of mountain rescue, safety and equipment management. These skills allow you to optimize your safety and generate a collaborative work with our guides during the climb.
Participants should have experience in altitude the last week prior to the begin the climb Artesonraju, which ensures adequate acclimatization and conditioning of the body to the altitude. It is recommended to stay above 5,000 meters above sea level.
We suggest an acclimatization program before your expedition, it can be mountains of the Cordillera Blanca with a minimum of 6 days of anticipation. We recommend acclimatization at Churup lake, then a previous climbing in peaks such as Huarapasca, Yanapaccha or Janyaraju.
Our expedition starts in Huaraz, we will pick you up at your hotel with private transportation. We will go north through the Huaylas valley to Yungay then continue to Huascaran National Park to check in and pass through Llanganuco canyon while visualizing the turquoise lakes Orconcocha and Chinancocha. Then we will go up the road until we reach the beautiful viewpoint Portachuelo Pass, where we will stop to enjoy the visual domain of Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Huandoys, Pisco, and all the turquoise lakes that compose the far Llanganuco valley. Finally, we will continue to Vaquería village, this is the place where we will begin the approach to the Alpamayo mountain. Vaqueria village is where the donkey drivers and donkeys are waiting to assist us with the transfer of logistical equipment to the camp. After about 5 hours of walking, we will arrive at Tucto camp.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Box lunch, lunch, tea time and dinner.
Transfer by car: 3 hours
Estimated hiking time: 4 to 5 hours
Elevation: +550 m (3700 masl to 4250 masl)
Distance: 13.5 km
On the second day of the approach hike to Alpamayo mountain, we will go up to Punta Union Pass (4750 m). From this pass we will have an awesome viewpoint of the snowy mountains: Taulliraju (known as the Cathedral of the World), Artesonraju (known as the mountain of the Paramount Picture), Rinrijirca, Paria and Quitaraju. We will go down to the Santa Cruz valley, passing by the Taullipampa camp. We will continue our hike to the Quebrada Arhuay to finally reach our Alpamayo base camp.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch, tea time and dinner.
Estimated hiking time: 4 to 5 hours
Elevation: +50 m (4250 masl to 4300 masl)
Distance: 13 km
This day we will prepare the personal mountain equipment to be carried by the porters. Then, we will hike uphill for about 2 hours on a rocky trail until we reach the Artesonraju moraine camp.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch and dinner.
Estimated hiking time: 2 hours
Elevation: +750 m (4250 masl to 5000 masl)
The most awaited day has arrived, it’s time for our ascent to the summit. We will start the day around midnight, after breakfast the guide will rope us and he will inspect all the necessary equipment for the climb. We will climb to the base of the shoulder of the mountain located on the north ridge along the NE spur. We will go along the ridge overcoming seracs, crevasses and penitents until we reach the summit ridge. Before reaching the summit we will overcome a delicate edge of rock and ice.
After about 10 hours of constant climbing, we will reach the summit. From this point you will enjoy the Cordillera Blanca with a 360º view of the most beautiful mountains of Peru: Huandoy, Chopicalqui, Huascarán, Quitaraju, Santa Cruz, Pucajirkas, Rinrijirca, Parón, Caraz, Aguja, Pirámide, Taulliraju, Pirámide Glarcilazo, Millushraju, Parón, Rinrijirca, Santa Cruz and Alpamayo.
We will stay at the summit the necessary time to rest, hydrate and take pictures. Finally we will make the descent rappels by the same route of ascent, we will arrive to our camp, we will eat and rest.
Depending on the fitness of the client and previous coordination with the guide and support team, we could descend the same day to Taullipampa Camp.
Lodging: Mountain tents.
Meals: Breakfast, box lunch and dinner.
Estimated climb time: 10 to 12 hours.
Elevation: +1025 m (5000 masl to 6025 masl )
After breakfast we dismantle the camp for going downhill, the donkey driver and the donkeys will be ready to transport all the logistic equipment to Cashapampa village. We will head downhill through Quebrada Santa Cruz. The transport bus will be waiting for us in Cashapampa village to take us back to Huaraz.
Meals: Breakfast.
Estimated hiking time: 6 hours.
Elevation: -1900 masl
Transfer by car: 3 hours to Huaraz
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